🔗 Share this article

Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate well-known high-end establishments. But, tucked prominently among these food heavyweights is a modest salonu situated in a far-flung area of northern London.

An Unexpected Honour

This compact Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent food magazine. This honour has made the owners totally surprised.

“I am completely shocked,” remarks a family member, alluding to his family’s relentless work that led to their small restaurant achieving such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing destination, has maintained much of its earlier character. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking display, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” says the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant more than delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a tender texture.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. As the savoury mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is folded tightly inside.

It is typically consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a more intense, toastier and not overly sweet profile.

Outranking the Titans

Notably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for under £25, similar experiences at top-tier establishments can cost many times that amount.

A Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is most important is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a life outside work but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is likely to resonate beyond its own doors. “I believe many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader significance of this culinary achievement.